Holibobs 2026: Doctor Faustus & the A.C.

“Look at the bee! It looks like a goth!”, I said to nobody in particular. The hovering jet black bug landed on a flower with such delicate motion yet the tank-like structure of its body screamed not to be messed with. Think Rocky meets The Rock. But, almost entirely black with some white facial features. Not to be confused with racist minstrel men of dated television shows.

When the Cranes Fly South by Lisa Ridzén touched me. So much so that the last few chapters had me in and out of my eyes doing impressions of waterfalls. Empathy and that book seemed inseparable. I haven’t cried at many books. In fact, I can’t think of any off the top of my head, not even Bambi (the book, not the film). Felix Salten’s written words didn’t quite torture my young soul like the Walt Disney animation.

Exploring Huizhou has seen many wanders to various parks such as West Lake (西湖); Dong Ping park (东平公园); Dongpo Temple (东平公园); Dongpo Jing Park (东坡井); Hejiang Tower (合江楼); & Zhongshan Park (中山公园). A mesh of flowers, temple-like structures, wooden platforms, and traditional realms can easily be found. And mosquitoes.

I firmly believe that where I step, the mosquito conservation programmes improve. As a knock on effect bat populations improve. Their guano feeds a realm of trees. The mosquitoes dive from leaves onto my skin and top up theor dietary needs. I am part of the circle of life. Eternally bugged by the little winged terrors. And the relentless humidity and heat partners such things.

Many wanders were had on the banks of the Dōngjiāng River (东江), which stretches 523 km (325 miles) from Mount Yajibo in Jiangxi to Machong in Dongguan where its mouth opens into the Pearl River (Zhūjiāng/珠江). China’s third longest River system has many tributaries along its whopping 2,400 km (1,500 miles). Amongst its flow through Huizhou, there are tree-lined banks. Many have their own passports with species names and locations fastened on the side. Esch wander was toasty and way above thirty Celsius.

Christopher Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus was first performed around 1594 survives via two texts published around ten years and 22 years later. An Elizabethan peer of Shakespeare’s times, this play shook the apple cart with themes of dark arts, devil worship, and occultism. The religious focus of the text is interspersed by witty moments. It is a challenging text to read, yet, once you start the short play flows towards a morbid conclusion. I finished reading the play script in a Luckin Coffee by Huizhou’s Xinkai River. A friendly partner to the cathedral city of Worcester, I enjoyed my cappuccino, thinking how much I’d like cheese on toast with some Lea and Perrins Worcestershire Sauce. A.C. firmly on chill.

Solamen miseris socios habuisse doloris” – Latin for ‘Misery loves company’, Doctor Faust, Christopher Marlowe

Stage XII: Serendipity x Terra

Nihao! 你好!Hello!

Lee Child mentioned in his novels, that his character Jack Reacher never goes back to a place he’s visited. It’s a state of mind. I’m not Jack Reacher. I’m too short and not as strong. I went back to Dali’s Ancient town in a car with Qiézi (茄子) and the trio of girls that set out with our driver in the first place. It had only been for two nights away, but such was the refreshment of the trek, it felt longer (in a good way).

I checked into the Jade Emu Hostel once again, who were so busy that they put me into a neighbouring hotel. A room is a room. Then it was time for a coffee at Movie Time Coffee Shop, surrounded by a chilled setting. Qiézi joined me for a cuppa and we talked a little. Two dogs, one tiny and one medium in stature had a fuss, before climbing all over us for hugs and attention. It was a pleasurable end to a good day.

The following morning I met QiéZi with Xiao Jie, one of the girls from the trekking, and we wondered to a set of temples (including Gantong temple and a nunnery) and trails on 苍山 Cāngshān, starting somewhere near Dali University (by Xuefu Lu). The gentle upwardly walks led to BuLuoSi temple and a view of numerous waterfalls. We didn’t return to Dali’s old Town (古城, Gǔchéng) but instead bypassed it to meet QiéZi’s good friends Lin and Spirlo. The once top 13 city (in terms of size – in the year 1000AD) is a sprawl of farms and villages along the Cāngshān range. Lin and Spirlo live at the far end of along road, and down an alley, in a lovely little farmhouse surrounded by gardens rich in vegetables.

We’d gone from orchids, rhododendrons, camellias and birdsong to a relaxed house filled with warmth and harmonies. The six cats with their talented masters of Lin (from Fujian) and her Greek husband Spirlo were great company. Plenty of conversation was had from talking about the didgeridoo to football to camping and trekking.

The final full day involved a filling breakfast of omelette and salmon at Serendipity cafe and diner. It did exactly what it said on the label filling my belly to the brim. Not a bad iced coffee indeed! Then, a wander to drink fruit juice, natter and following that a gander at the market on Sānyuèjiē (三月街) and all the marvelous oddities for sale. A fire festival is due in Dali around about now. After which a spot of planned spontaneity was called for, planned and put into action. A relaxing mix of sensations followed. I’ll write about that another time.

The day culminated with the eating of tiramisu at the Terra cafe. It was by far the best tiramisu I have ever experienced. Qiezi, Xiao Jie and I were eventually joined by Echo. As is very Echo, she broughta new friend along. Farola talked star signs and birth times (08:37, if you aren’t wondering). They ordered more tiramisu but by then I was stuffed like a well-fed teddy bear at a teddy bear factory. I’ve tried many and few have satisfied. It took me a while to realise that Terramisu wasn’t a spelling mistake but a variation on the cafe name in the food type! And, then Qiezi and Xiao Jie bid everyone goodbye. It could have ended there and then, but the magic carried on.

I was invited by both Qiezi and Xiao Jie to Lin and Spirlo’s farmhouse. Qiezi had taken the responsibility to feed their six cats. I pondered the difficulty of getting from there to Dali Railway Station. Echo asked me, “What’s stopping you?” She was completely right. Nothing was stopping me. I hugged Echo goodbye and I’m not ashamed to say a few tears formed in my eyes. Emotions can be high at times of homesickness and when you really appreciate great friends.

Leaving Dali behind, I feel like I will return. There’s much more to explore and within the whole province of Yunnan, there’s too much nature to ignore. I’ll probably be back. The final night lay on the ground staring at stars with Qiezi and Xiao Jie was special. Qiezi made a few very wonderful photos. Sharing the sights of five shooting stars in one night was a unique experience.

Home is where the heart is. Your heart doesn’t have to just be in one place, at one time, or with one person. Hearts are open. Making a connection irrespective of time and space is a wonderful experience. There needs to be more love and peace in the world. In the words of Qiezi, “Everyone is free spirited and an adventurer. Independent individuals but connected together.” It’s been a delightful and unique time in Yunnan. My heart feels warm and my head clearer than ever. Something will travel with me from these days that started in Dali and I leave behind a piece of my heart.

“We’ll meet again, don’t know where, don’t know when, but I know we’ll meet again some sunny day.” – Vera Lynn song We’ll Meet Again written by Ross Parker (Mancunian) & Hughie Charles (also born in Manchester)

Zaijian! 再见!Goodbye!