Some say there around 1,000,000,000,000,000 mosquitoes on Earth. A quadrillion is a number that is so large we cannot imagine it. Or its a number if supposed fans that follow Manchester United online. That number of mosquitoes represents what animals are alive. I’d estimate the full 100 types that feed on humans (of the 3600 species) have had a nibble on me this week. Or so it feels.
“People change
But you know some people never do
You know when people change
They gain a piece but they lose one too” – Seasons (Waiting On You) – Future Islands
Passing a field some kids invited me to play football. This was the day after playing football with adults and my mate Thom Powers (from Texas). That night in sweltering 35°C heat (feeling closer to 44°C with humidity) I scored 2 (plus an own goal), not that it mattered, it was just a great run out with good local Huizhou people. I’m certain a mosquito cloud followed my sweaty body back and forth. The game with the kids was less serious, with my pigeon Chinese, and a smattering of English from them doing something for Sino-Mancunian relations.
The Huizhou Museum (惠州博物馆) offered up a regular slice of historic Huizhou and some links to its famous ancient and contemporary residents. Located close to the Science Museum (惠州科技馆) and not too far from the Cultural and Art Centre (惠州文化艺术中心), a rainy or steamy from hot weather day can offer an opportunity to peruse varied galleries. Some live music on traditional instruments was on display during our visit.
Many people know Hùizhōu (惠州) as a city famous for its coastline. After all, it has around 223.6 km² (86.3 square miles) of coastline. Much of the Guangdong provincial city sits just 15 metres (49 feet) above sea level. Yet the vast plains and river networks of Huizhou stretch out scattered with mountainous hills and, through various counties, stretches northwards to Qingyuan within the Guangdong province.
The entire region of Huizhou covers 10,922 km² (4,217 square miles). Wales, in the U.K. sprawls over 20,737 km² (8,007 square miles). Huizhou is roughly half-a-Wales in size. Wales is a recognised international measurement. Cymru is the proper name of Wales. When Sū Shì (苏轼) was exiled back in Song dynasty times, few would have expected much to come of his new homes. Nobody would anticipate seafront property prices rising astronomically in the 21st century. Su Shi stayed in Huizhou between 1094–1100, during his second of three banishment experiences. He was a very naughty boy.
Aside from Huizhou forming around the former residences of Su Shi, AKA Dongpo (東坡) AKA Zishan (子瞻), the city has gone in to grow as a manufacturing hub. The city has a motto, displayed regularly on signs, “City to benefit people” (惠民之州). The West Lake (XiHu) base of the city on Feng Lake definitely provides a much-needed lung for a growing city of twentieth-century onwards concrete.
Hak-kâ (客家) people and their culture make up the bulk of the local region. Hak-ka means “guest families” and forms a sub group of the majority Han Chinese ethnicity group of China. Hak-ka people are warm-hearted, welcoming, and love their food. Hakka dimsum is delicious for breakfast or lunch or any of the other non-stop meals enjoyed on Guangdong. You’re more likely to hear Kèjiāhuà (客家话), that is, Hakka language, than Cantonese or Mandarin in Huizhou.
Whilst Su Shi, the Chinese poet, essayist, calligrapher, painter, and scholar-official may have enlightened the region, the city now is know for a huge number if sea resorts, hot springs near to Heyuan and its seafood. Bordering Guangzhou, Shenzhen, and Dongguan, the city is well connected by railways, roads, and waterways. The 40,000-seater Huizhou Olympic Stadium (惠州奥林匹克体育场) has yet to host the Olympics.
Huizhou, a place with long humid summers is twinned with Worcester in England. The weather is slightly different in Worcestershire. No sauce from Worcestershire can be found in Huizhou, unless at a lesser-spotted import shop, however other fish-based fermented sauces. If it repels mosquitoes, I’ll be rubbing it deep into my muscles.